Another Star Turn at Marchesa
February 17, 2011
Originally published in WSJ Heard on the Runway blog
Filed under: Fashion / New York Fashion Week
Tags: , ,

Marchesa Fall 2011 by Elva Ramirez

The Marchesa show is always a photographer's and fashion devotee's dream, full of decadence in tulle, silk and precision beadwork.

Like they have for several seasons, designers Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman placed their doll-like models on elevated mirrored platforms. It's a great way for everyone with a camera, from a tiny smartphone to a state-of-the-art Canon to get close up beauty shots.

It's a bit of special moment when a girl in a dazzling dress looks straight into your measly iPhone before turning her attention to a Getty photographer. That said, a few of the models wilted under the lights and had to sit down, rather than stand.

The new fall collection is the first after last season's hit machine, in which several dresses went on to be featured at high profile events. The biggest hit, and most-widely photographed dress, of course, was the dripping-in-gold gown Sandra Bullock wore to accept her Best Actress Oscar. Marchesa also outfitted Gabourey Sidibe and Vera Farmiga for the ceremony.

There were more than a few "I wish to thank..."-ready gowns, from a white gown with an armor-like bejeweled bodice cinching in mounds of filmy tulle to a body-skimming (and body-revealing) lace-appliqued dress that seemed to float in the air.

Kurt Wilberding /The Wall Street Journal

Some models wore lace veils over their hair and faces, recalling the mantillas worn by the grand ladies of Latin America who attend Catholic mass in full regalia. An interesting styling note: Models wore bare legs with sheer chiffon and lace socks with sky-high heels. It was an unexpected, fresh take on evening styling.

Rapper Eve, in a black Marchesa cocktail dress and a sleek ponytail, said that she looks for party dresses that will stop people in their tracks. "You want people to be like," she gasps loudly, "'Did you see that? Did you see that?' Marchesa is that kind of collection."

"I'm wearing a Marchesa dress and it is very form-fitting but I'm actually comfortable," she said. "For me, comfort is key." Eve is currently working on her new album, due out later this year, with a new single out in May.

We weren't able to speak to Marchesa designer Georgina Chapman yesterday at the show, so we emailed her two questions.

WSJ: Do you design with big awards shows in mind?
Georgina Chapman: No, never. Every time we design for a collection, we design with a theme and inspiration point in mind. It's always an honor when one of those dresses is chosen for the red carpet. If we are commissioned to design a dress for an actress for an event, then of course, we do think about what it will look like on the red carpet.

WSJ: How does a big Oscars appearance like Sandra Bullock's win affect business? Is there an increase in sales in secondary collections like Notte, the bridal line or accessories?

Ms. Chapman: It's wonderful exposure when someone like Sandra wears one of our dresses, because the news reaches a broader audience worldwide, which of course promotes the entire Marchesa brand as a whole, from couture to handbags and beyond.

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