Depth of Field at 3.1 Phillip Lim
September 16, 2010
Originally published in WSJ Heard on the Runway
Filed under: Fashion / New York Fashion Week
Tags: ,

Elva Ramirez: 3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2011 collection review

Phillip Lim staged his women's collection, 3.1 Phillip Lim, at the vast Park Avenue Armory on Wednesday afternoon, where the space in between the bleachers was filled with large white sculptures.

Guests wondered if they would be used in some way.

They were, but not in any obvious way.

From different vantage points, the white blocks created shadows, added height, and broke up the field of vision.

The models didn't do anything other than sashay past the blocks, but their clothes suggested that the designer was upping the ante on dimensional dressing.

Nude and black rectangular swatches in different weights and transparencies were layered on top of each other, giving the eye a sense of depth without sacrificing the silhouette to bulkiness. (Think of the geometries in a Mondrian painting.)

Sheer, beaded embroideries were stacked over white-on-white blouses or hung off the waist like a slim aprons. Blouses were cut and layered in the back into triangular shapes that toed the line between a peplum and an apron.

It was an interesting experiment in volume, as women don't often want to add more padding around curves. But the fabrics were so sheer, and had enough difference in colors, that they accomplished both a dense look and a floaty airiness at the same time.

Mr. Lim offers a very sophisticated and urbane look, which is why many of the fashion editors at his show were dressed in Mr. Lim's fall clothes.

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