Andrew Buckler Loosens Up
September 10, 2010
Originally published in WSJ Heard on the Runway blog
Filed under: Fashion / New York Fashion Week
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Andrew Buckler Loosens Up for Spring 2011 by Elva Ramirez

Benny Goodman's 1938 seminal live Carnegie Hall version of "Sing Sing Sing," with the famous Gene Krupa solo, greeted guests at Andrew Buckler's Lincoln Center presentation.

That performance changed the course of jazz history, firmly placing jazz in the mainstream.

Is Buckler is hoping for a similar embrace by the fashion world? If so, he's taking a rather relaxed approach.

Models walked a small runway, but instead of heading backstage after their turn, they took a seat on the stage, eventually building up two long lines of artfully tousled boys.

Silhouettes ranged from body-grazing pullover sweaters and cardigans to slouchy t-shirts with not-quite-fitted jackets. The suits had more space to them, with jackets and pant legs moving away from the body, in contrast to the slim-fit of recent seasons. Pant legs were longer as well, and reached to cover ankles.

"Things have become a bit more draped on guys," designer Andrew Buckler said, gesturing to a soft blue suit worn with a sheer long t-shirt. "There's the element of bringing the suit jacket back. But rather than putting it with a dress shirt, we're putting it with a draped T-shirt."

Sheer, nearly transparent tees for men, worn under jackets, freshen up suiting for spring, the designer said. "We're playing with transparencies." He pointed to the shirt, which showed the model's torso underneath. "It's just a matter of layering it. No one wants to feel naked. Once you put a few layers on, because it's summer, the transparencies makes it more breathable."

Buckler's Invitation / Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez Buckler Spring 2011/ Photo by Elva Ramirez
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