Zero + Maria Cornejo's Monday morning men's and women's show at the Hosfelt Gallery was an austere event. Seats were arranged across several makeshift rooms, leading models to walk by at such a brisk pace that they were gone in a blur of wool and leather.

This is a collection for a sophisticate who takes risks with volume and who understands that clothes need to look good from many angles, not just the front. One of the striking details of a woman's wool swing coat, for example, was the way the high collar was sewn down so it was perpetually stiff; it was subtle, but the side view of the collar compelled the eye forward, to examine it up close.

Many pieces highlighted the shoulders. One-strap dresses left shoulders bare on some looks while laser-cut leather shoulder pieces draped across clavicles in others. "I always like shoulders. Most people have beautiful shoulders," Maria Cornejo said after the show. "The shoulders, they frame the body."

"When we look at somebody, you're looking at this" -- she held up her hands like a picture frame around her face and neck. "You're not looking at the whole silhouette."